Відео

Are you from the same part of town as tim curry wow what a voice !!!!

True, if the groves where measured properly before the frets where inserted they it should be deep enough to insert the fret wire fully. Simply glue the fret wire after you've confirmed it's all level.

I’ve seen people approach the neck from the bottom and steam it . Heats the joint and not the neck ,and the water stays on the bottom .

For spot levelling you just have to file down and recrown one fret and not all of them as you says. You can use a brass fret setter or a fret hammer. But otherwise I agree - only file if hammering doesn't work. I also agree that it seems counter intuitive to level and recrowning brand new frets.

This is fantastic. This video made me think about it: if your fingerboard is leveled properly and the fret slots are deep enough, then you should try to make sure that all frets are hammered or pressed in flush with the wood. If you can achieve that, then why start lopping off metal and making more work for yourself? One thing I really like is that you clearly didn’t immediately break out the super glue when you pressed in the frets. If you had superglued in the frets then you probably wouldn’t be able to hammer down the high ones. I really enjoy Tanya Shpachuck’s videos, but it annoys me how she floods the frets with CA glue and then has to spray them with accelerator and then chisel off the excess glue. She’s probably breathing in all those fumes from the accelerator and glue, as well as making a mess that she has to clean up later on. I’m going to try to do this with my next guitar build: make sure the board is level, try to get all the frets in flush with the wood, then go right on to the polishing of the frets. Nice channel, great video, you just got a big fat thumbs up and a subscription from me!

Never use that stain/polyurethane mix stuff, horrible coloring and results when you need to see the grain

Great idea for a steam needle!

I used a soft hammer just like that one on a kit guitar and dented the fret a little. All the frets on the cheap kits and cheap necks have the frets not set 100% cus there rushing or something. I have an Indonesian jackson that has fret issues but I think it's due to the previous owner and a drop or knock over.

HUMIDITY is the ONLY cause for blushing. "Blush" is caused by trapped moisture, NOT by how thick or how many coats you sprayed. The time between coats plays a crucial part in 'capturing' or 'trapping' moisture. If you spray outside, and temps are warm enough AND humidity is high, spray ONLY one coat. ANY coat on top of this will blush unless it is fully cured. Let it sit a day when in humid conditions UNLESS you spray in a controlled environment. If you decide to push forward with a second coat, and you see some blushing, first try wiping the blush with olive oil. YES, OLIVE OIL. If the blush disappears, go ahead and spray a light second coat, wait two minutes and if no appearance of cloudiness, spray a heavier second coat and let it sit overnight. Lightly sand to release any trapped gases, wipe with window cleaner, and spray two-three light coats. If sprayed correctly, your finish should be mirror-like.

It's almost obscene - - the good, simple, common sense on display here.

Thanks a lot I'm newbie who has bought a kiss rocker ..and a cheap hammer. Thanks to your clear explanation, I've made my little Tele harley beton TE70, perfect and incredibe like a pro fender. ...

In my experience I found some frets won't stay down after hammering. Usually, my customers get the guitars back in hours or the next day so hammering 'could' result in the fret coming back up in hours, a day or two. Also, I find if you have a tall fret(s) and level them all with a file, they all look 'dressed' as I put magic black marker on them before. But the wierd thing is many times the fret will still rock! So I use my rocker and 600 grit and sand on the high fret(s) until it's level across its surface. Then I will sand the rest with 600 and a straight edge and roll the sides. Then I repeat with 800,1000,1500,2000 and polish them. This works good in my case. I mostly work on Mexican Fenders and they are notorious for high frets. I find this to be the best fix for this issue......although time consuming. I just set up a Hendrix strat last weekend and 11 high frets! Yes USA fenders can have high frets to. If all the Frets were squeezed in together and 'held' with pressure for a minute or even 30 seconds I would imagine they would most likely be seated far better.

TUSM

good tecnik for you

i didnt even need to watch this video to decide if I want to play speed metal or of i want to sound like shit. you dont need to really level your frets, just like you dont really need an E string.

Great observation ! Question: do you install the frets before or after glueing fretboard to the neck ?

Smashing your frets with a hammer removes the crown and the crown makes strings easier to hold down and not buzz. Also, smashing the fret will make an indentation in the neck underneath the fret. This video shows how to damage a guitar. Get a few tools, learn to level, crown and polish, and you will have those tools forever. I never plan to have a guitar for 200 years because it only needs to last my lifetime or my kids’ lifetimes - a little metal off the frets every few years isn’t a big enough deal to prevent me from the benefit of an easy playing guitar.

Sure - the same as using dull blades on a chisel or lawn mower. The guitar is a tool, but you can instantly tell by how easy it plays - a $150 guitar can feel like a $4000 guitar with only a level and crowned fretboard. I wish that wasn’t true.

If the hammering doesn’t work, rather than using a fret leveler, can you just use a fret crown tool to shave the single fret?

I like your work. Having said that, I would have kept the damage and made it art. What I do.

tapping them in should be the first step always. leveling the fret before is just leading to a situation where if the fretboard dries out at all, the "leveled" fret is not going to be low.

nice sir, glad I found this 🤘

The problem is its most likely to pop back up again but still worth a go first

Thanks. I found the video very interesting. I've been messing about with guitars over 20 years now. Home only I'm not a business. My sons is the guitar player not me.(I try lol) He's managed to break guitars over the years and I always end up fixing them. Weather its the wood or the electrics. I've done everything from re-fretting to putting the humbuckers out of faze. He now has his dream guitar a Gibson 335. I hope he never needs my help fixing that. LOL. Thanks again.

What is a "frit"? 😊

Great stuff.

Шлифовать лады или нет это очень сильно зависит от материала самих ладов, от способа их установки, от того, вклеены лады или просто запрессованы. Важно чтобы накладка грифа была ровная и при установке использовать пресс, тогда можно и без шлифовки обойтись. Если менять старые изношенные лады на лады из нержавейки в старую накладку, то нужно их вклеивать на цианакрилат и оставлять каждый лад под прессом на какое то время, потому что нержавейка пружинит и если лады не вклеивать, то со временем они немного вылезут (лично проверил). Лучше лады подгонять под радиус грифа, тогда они не будут пружинить и встанут без зазоров.

I did a repair on some damaged tuner holes on the headstock with epoxy resin…and it worked really good Your vid just showed up on my feed recently 😊

Great advice!

Spot on, I figured this method on my own years ago. I put 3 frets in and use the fret leveler. I then work and level check the next as I proceed. Thanks for doing this video, I hope it helps DIY'rs in the home fretting world.

It Works Thanks

wow! Thanks

YES! This makes so much sense! Thanks for sharing. In your honor, I'm going to check and hammer my frets one handed with a hard candy in my mouth, lol

I get very consistent results from making sure the freboard is fretless-quality flat then pressing the frets in. The Jaguar neck I just did with stainless frets required zero clean-up. Hey, I paid for the whole fret wire. I'm not grinding off a bunch of material for no reason.

What would think about cutting it off short, drilling the core, then steam the core to remove the stump?

Yeah, not necessary, like my Taylor 814CE, its only 2 years old and I don't play it a lot! D & G buzz around the 2nd and third frets.

training wheels sold separately...

gotta get me a step ladder for my "Guitar Repair Shop / mom's boy friend's garage and future coffee shop". lmao....

“Where’s that confounded bridge?” 🤘🏼😎

Can you get your action down to 2/64ths of an inchs at the 12th fret and play cleanly without buzzing with a light touch? If not, then the frets can stand a little levelling. And NOI fretjob is ever THAT good without a little bit of levelling, not to get the action that low. Guitar tech/luthier for forty freaking years here.

FANTASTIC TIP - THANKS

I would of though if passed the body through the thickness planer an put a top veneer over the complete body nobody would ever know. Or just cut a plug out of the back corner and fitted something completely off the wall like purplehart of maybe even a piece of brass and just call it a feature.

Your common sense prevails!!

I would have routed the damaged corner away, maybe up to the maple and put a plug in there. Would have been more work, then cutting of all of it, but cleaner as you could leave the top unchangend.

Great info Glenn. You can straighten up the holes at the back when you fit the string ferrules.

Bruh, all frets, always, need to be FULLY seated (preferably glued down) before you even THINK of a fret rocker. 👎

I repress the high frets, so same idea... BUT if I am working on a vintage guitar that I didn't want to plane the fingerboard flat for preservation, I still need to level the frets to compensate for inconsistent neck contours

Very nice!

This just happened to my les paul epiphone it was like slowest fucking drop ever and yet the headstock broke

Looking forward to seeing this guitar coming together.